Help pick a beater for Sting

So you never spun it

Cody Harris wrote:

So you never spun it

I know, I know...here's the latest..more traditional, maybe ???

Well, the latest 2 piece beater is almost ready to rumble....another day to gather up some hardware

I'm interested in how it turns out. I wish I could add something to help, but it seems you've 'got it covered.' Furthermore, the only beater I ever built was completed in 1 day and fell apart in it's second match.

I was wondering tho, why (and how) you tapered the two part beater from the center region outward. My guess has something to do with weight and axle size. . .

rdubard wrote:

I'm interested in how it turns out. I wish I could add something to help, but it seems you've 'got it covered.' Furthermore, the only beater I ever built was completed in 1 day and fell apart in it's second match.

I was wondering tho, why (and how) you tapered the two part beater from the center region outward. My guess has something to do with weight and axle size. . .

Mostly for weight, but I decided to try tweaking the loads in SW and go conventional....I got to save more weight, but I think that it's iffy...probably not enough service factor for impact loading, especially against a strong horizontal undercutter.

Also, the tapered design would allow for more grinding in a straight on head to head, in that the trailing edge would come into play as well.

It's all a bunch of BS, that I wish was over and done with....lol

spin it!!!!!!

looks good. The pulley is well protected, the counterbalance looks good... how much does it weigh?

Dan Curhan wrote:

looks good. The pulley is well protected, the counterbalance looks good... how much does it weigh?

just under 3/4 lbs.

But it draws too much amperage and doesn't get up to speed...17k is about max

I'm back to the drawing board and probably back to the drum

because of drag?

not surprised.. lots more air is being pushed around..

alex and i were going to see if theres a vortex in the center of the beater around the shaft, never got around to it though

Funny, I was just wondering that myself! I wonder if there's one inside of Fluffy's drum, since it's got open ends..

next time you shoul machine edges onto to supports so they would be like fan blades but have them opposite so if the would work one side would draw air into the drum and and the other side would pull the hot air out, maybe helping cool your electronics and motor a little

haha we were joking about that when we were designing it! we could still glue some on!

Drilling a hole at just the right angle through the drum's wall would work just as well.

you wont try it

Cody Harris wrote:

you wont try it

I might, if I actually had something inside the drum to cool. Two (or four, or thirty for that matter) holes aren't going to take a lot out of a drum's structural strength as long as they're placed appropriately.

Cody Harris wrote:

because of drag?

Not 100% sure just yet...I can also flip a blade around and it would be a true single blade beater, and see if anything changes.

In any case, I will do some testing to see how it does, hitting somethings...just a bit busy at the moment

Jeff L wrote:

Cody Harris wrote:

you wont try it

I might, if I actually had something inside the drum to cool. Two (or four, or thirty for that matter) holes aren't going to take a lot out of a drum's structural strength as long as they're placed appropriately.

i would have to think holes like that would just put alot of drag on the drum actually

Cody Harris wrote:

Jeff L wrote:

Cody Harris wrote:

you wont try it

I might, if I actually had something inside the drum to cool. Two (or four, or thirty for that matter) holes aren't going to take a lot out of a drum's structural strength as long as they're placed appropriately.

i would have to think holes like that would just put alot of drag on the drum actually

Yeah, you'd have to check and see that the motor was up to the task of the extra load.

woot for surface area/tension