LOLCANO 3 or 4 who knows wat # we are up to now

we've been sining our gearboxes (custom housings) into the framerails on all our latest bots....using the tierods to fasten them.

we have pretty much gone to dead axles and in some cases with eccentric axles whixh allow for changing/adjusting bot height.

In retrospect, however, even tho our bots were among the lowest on Moto's uneven wooden floor, his wasn't really a big factor...our powered wedges suffered from dragging and actually chewing up the floor, while the wedgelets on our drumbots were to low....we were somewhat overwhelmed and never got around to doing any adjustments....

We did have enough success and failure to know where our strong and weak points lie.

Cody! it's okay! we've got one!

Some pix from the latest build(its almost done):

gee.. I really like that "motor in the weapon" idea.. wish I had done that...

those top and bottom plates look thick! 3/16"?

are you going to put the motor back tword the robot? I would think i might get costly keeping it in its current spot

ya the weapon is in the motor like we have been doing for a while, it really does save us a lot of space and it will be rotated towards the back of the bot. the top/bottom plates are 1/4'' thick. I am 1/2 a pound under weight as is so with some pocketing and switching the top/bottom to something like lexan i could have a nice hobbyweight

where are the front support posts? as soon as your beater hits anything it'll hit the ground and you'll go flying...

LOL

LQTM (laugh quietly to myself)

Just out of curiosity, how is the wiring done on these drum spinners with the motor's spinning inside the drum. Usually I see a hollow shaft where the wires feed into the chassis, but this rod looks solid. How did you guys do it?

IS IT WIRELESS!?!?!?!

We use a keyway because it doubles as a way to keep the motor and shaft from spinning and twisting the wires. but its a much tighter fit than hollow shaft, we had to use teflon wire because it was the only thing thin enough to fit.

Can i ask whats so funny?

What's so funny is the robot still doesn't have standoffs, and if you tried to drive it now with the weapon on you'd have a robot flying around the room destroying random objects the entire way. And if that didn't do it, the first thing it so much as grazed with the weapon running would make it happen.

OOO ok well we are putting standoffs on it just hasnt been done yet. those pix are from monday we wired it up yesterday and assembled the two halves. today is adding the stand offs and pocketing because we magically gained a pound somewhere

jeeves_m_d wrote:

OOO ok well we are putting standoffs on it just hasnt been done yet. those pix are from monday we wired it up yesterday and assembled the two halves. today is adding the stand offs and pocketing because we magically gained a pound somewhere

That's some heavy gauge wire??? lol

I really dont know what to say, Solidworks told me i was going to be a 1/2 pound under. and when i weighed it before assembly it was like 14.6, but after wiring and assembly it came out to 16.6. Im thinking i was just forgetting a piece before. We switch the aluminum top/bottom plates out to the poly carb and did some pocketing. currently 15.2 and i have big 6'' colson that can have a bite taken out of them. there is one problem, thanks to banebots giving us a deffective ESC that cant be replaced till monday the robot can only drive forwards and turn but not reverse. So we will have that disadvantage but it should be ok aslong as the beater keeps spinning.

Given my (West Mifflin) experience with Banebots ESCs.. they have a tendency to either not connect, or connect without reverse. I have never seen a product so unreliable out-of-the-box...

we hardly ever have any problems with them

Ralley In the Valley Results:

1st place A boring but sturdy wedge (from plymouth)

2nd PLace THE BULL(Hanover)

3rd place UKNIGHT(titanium knights)


How did LS do? not so well but decent

the wedge son of a brick one its first match against a drum from hanover but ended up forfeiting its next to matches because the banebots ESC's melted in the first match.

LOLCANO went 1-2 first match against a robot called a2v2 which had a bunch of saw blades on it. The match was a 2-hit KO win for us. The second mach was a against a drum/beater called rickshaw, the match started with me breaking his weapon that was held together with bolts in a fashion similar to the bull last year. but thanks to me being a silly goose and forgeting to tighten/ lockitite my bolts i ended unscrewing my own drive shaft and losing both my wheels in a very comical way. third match was against UKNIGHT in which i was tossed around alot and decided to tap after my weapon stopped working. THe out come was that my weapon shaft got completely bent and i ended up leaving a nice gouge in unknight.

Other than replacing the axel the bot is still in working conditions and repairs/modifications will be made shortly

On a side not i did not use standoffs because of weight issues. But based off what happened today i dont think i needed them. i gave several big hits and i never had the beater touch the ground and go flying.

interesting... I'd like to see a video!
and frisco, that's actually the weekend my girlfriend is coming out to pittsburgh to visit me, so I won't be able to go with you guys. Otherwise, I definitely would!

here are the videos from rally in the valley

looks like you need an idler for your drive belts

those arent belts it was supposed to use, because the bot was so rushed the timing belt i had waas a litlle short so we just thruogh on some poly cord as a quick fix. I've ordered a new belt at the correct length. What u did notice that was my beater took its sweet time getting to speed which is a problem I dont know if i should mess with my ratio because the beater may get to slow, it is currently at 8000 rpm would 4000 be to slow?

i saw that but i figured it was a necessary ratio to fit the motor in the way it was

your partially right,weapon pulley cannot be altered, but i could turn down the one on the motor i just dont know how small to go.

the setup is axi gold 4130/20

beater is 7'' diameter 1.5'' thick 4 pounds steel. with bronze bushings

the ratio is a 2'' diameter pulley on the motorr, and a 1'' diamter pulley on the weapon

how can i figure out how much smaller to make the pulley before i lose much speed.

hm weird we usually run 3/4 to 1 motor pulley to weapon